Hair relaxers have long been a cornerstone of grooming traditions in many Black households, with their use deeply tied to societal beauty norms. Historically, as many as 95% of self-identified Black women in the U.S. reported using relaxers, according to ScienceDirect. Even 84% of non-Hispanic Black women acknowledged current or prior use.
These products, marketed as a gateway to sleek, straight hair, have often been seen as a means to align with Eurocentric ideals of beauty. Standards that have shaped perceptions of professionalism, social acceptance, and desirability.
Yet beneath the glossy packaging and enticing advertisements lies a troubling truth. The products that promised empowerment and manageability may have come at a devastating cost to the health and well-being of Black women.
A Culture Shaped by History and Eurocentric Ideals
According to the Ledger-Enquirer, Garrett Augustus Morgan, an African American inventor, developed the first hair relaxer in the early 20th century. The product’s popularity surged among Black Americans during the 1950s and 1960s, heavily influenced by societal pressures to conform to Western beauty ideals.
Straight hair became synonymous with professionalism, social acceptance, and even safety in a world steeped in systemic racism. For many Black women, straightening their hair was more than a cosmetic choice; it was a survival tactic in environments that stigmatized natural hair.
The Guardian reports that this pressure extended to young girls, as many families introduced relaxers at an early age. For example, Gloria Moraa, a Kenyan woman in her late twenties, recalls her aunt chemically straightening her hair as a child during the holidays. This practice is mirrored in the U.S., where many women recount similar stories of early exposure to these products.
The Health Fallout: Uterine Cancer, Endocrine Disruption, and More
In recent years, the narrative around hair relaxers has shifted dramatically. In 2022, a groundbreaking study by the National Institutes of Health (NIH) uncovered a concerning connection between frequent hair relaxer use and uterine cancer.
Women who used relaxers more than four times a year faced a noticeably higher risk. The research followed 33,497 U.S. women aged 35 to 74. In the study, 378 cases of uterine cancer emerged, shining a spotlight on the potential hidden dangers of these popular hair products.
This revelation was built on over a decade of research linking chemical straighteners to endocrine disruption and reproductive health issues, including fibroids and endometriosis.
Science points to a host of harmful chemicals present in these products, including:
- Formaldehyde: A known carcinogen.
- Phthalates: Chemicals linked to hormone interference.
- Parabens and Bisphenol A (BPA): Preservatives and plastics-related compounds suspected of affecting hormonal balance.
For some families, the consequences have been devastating.
The Legal Battles and Corporate Denial
The NIH findings sparked a wave of lawsuits in the U.S. Thousands of women have filed claims through the hair straightener lawsuit, accusing relaxer manufacturers of failing to warn consumers about health risks.
Companies like L’Oréal, Revlon, and Namaste Laboratories- producers of popular brands like Dark & Lovely are at the center of these cases, TorHoerman Law notes. These corporations deny wrongdoing, with L’Oréal dismissing the NIH study as inconclusive and maintaining confidence in the safety of their products.
However, activists and health advocates argue that the industry’s lack of transparency has left consumers vulnerable. A 2022 survey by the UK-based gender justice organization Level Up found that 77% of Black women were unaware of the cancer risks.
A Shift Towards Natural Hair and Empowerment
The growing awareness of health risks associated with chemical hair relaxers has coincided with the rise of natural hair movement. This cultural shift celebrates the beauty of unprocessed Black hair.
As more women learn about the potential dangers of hair straighteners, including links to cancer, they are increasingly choosing to embrace their natural textures. Events like Curlfest in New York City, which celebrates curly and textured hair, along with the growing visibility of natural styles in media. They have played a significant role in this transformation.
These platforms provide a space for women to showcase their coils, kinks, and curls. They also empower women to reclaim their hair as a source of pride and identity, rejecting the beauty standards that once pressured them.
The Path Forward: Advocacy and Accountability
While the natural hair movement grows, advocates emphasize that the fight for justice is far from over. Activists like Seyi Falodun-Liburd of Level Up are pushing for stricter regulations on harmful chemicals in cosmetics and greater corporate accountability.
Policy changes are also in the works. The European Union and countries like Canada and Brazil have already banned or restricted formaldehyde in cosmetics. Additionally, the U.S. FDA is currently considering similar action.
FAQs
What is formaldehyde?
Formaldehyde is a strong-smelling, colorless gas commonly used in the production of various industrial and consumer products, including cosmetics, cleaning agents, and building materials. It is often found in hair straightening treatments and certain disinfectants, where it acts as a preservative and antibacterial agent.
How does formaldehyde affect human health?
Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen, meaning it can cause cancer. It can also cause irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory system. Long-term exposure to formaldehyde has been linked to an increased risk of developing cancers, especially of the nose, throat, and lungs.
How do I file a lawsuit against hair straightener manufacturers?
To file a lawsuit, you’ll need to consult with an attorney who handles cases involving dangerous products. They will help you gather evidence of your health condition and your use of the product. Your lawyer will file the lawsuit on your behalf, seeking compensation for your medical bills, pain and suffering, and other damages. Overall, the story of hair relaxers is a stark reminder of how beauty standards rooted in systemic inequities can have far-reaching consequences.
As the lawsuits unfold and more research emerges, the hope is that Black women will gain access to vital information and resources. This will allow them to make safer, healthier choices, free from the pressures of conformity and the hidden costs of harmful products. Ultimately, it’s about embracing self-love and empowerment- starting with accepting and celebrating who you truly are.
